Blade Samurai

Blade Samurai
Blade Samurai
Why is the samurai katana better than the ninja katana?

I thibk they are both great swords. But what seperates them? Besides the blade. What makes one better then the other?

... because there is no such thing as a ninja katana. (*sigh*)

"Ninja swords" are a Hollywood fiction. There is no historical documentation that ninja used swords which were of a special design or differed from those used by other Japanese of the period. Any so called "ninja sword" is pure fantasy.

There is no such thing as a special purpose ninja sword, although Hollywood and Toei film-studios want to make us believe that. But neither ninja nor "Onmitsu Doshin", the undercover agents of the Edo police, had a "standard" short sword with a straight blade, square tsuba and black fittings.

Present day SWAT teams and military commandos use special or modified weapons to suit their task, and so did assassins and spies of the Edo period. A shorter sword slung over the back might have proven useful for penetrating a castle and combat in confined spaces, but different situations would have called for a different sword. "Ninjato" has a nice ring to it, but the "sword shopping guide for spies" has yet to be discovered ...

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How to be able to identify the quality of a gun without knowing what to look? In this first article briefly cover parts of a sword and the best metals for look to his intention to the weapon in mind.

First, lets lay the foundation with a bit of terminology:

-Kissaki-The tip of the blade, also known as "Sharp pointy"
"Boshi" This is the curved metal edge that goes from the edge Kissaki (cut side) of his weapon.
-Hamon-East is the wavy pattern on the sword caused by the cooling process during forging. It has little to do with the quality of weapons (with some exceptions), but is an important value with regard to aesthetics (ie, that is what makes it nice), and is something to watch out for if you are a collector.
"Mune" This is the back of the katana. (The non-reducing side)
Hi-slot running down the spine of the leaf, also called "blood groove"
-Ha-The edge of the katana. This is obviously important, since it is the main funtion of the weapon.
-Habaki-leaf collar. (A band of metal wrapped around the bottom of the sheet, adding stability and aesthetics)
-Tsuba "The guard's hand, separating the cuffs of the offending piece of an opponent.
-Tsuka - The "handle". When posessor holds the sword.
Tsuka-Ito-This is the aesthetics of packaging that goes around the handle grip and possibly adding.
Kashira-the-knob, or "butt end" of the sword.
-Tang-The part of the road that runs through the handle, there are some variations.
-Full Tang-necessary for those of you who actually use this weapon as it ensures a durable and well made sword that will not burst apart in the tree of bad luck in the first place you're going to hit!
Half-Tang-In this type of leaf, spike is only half of the handle, which does not offer much in the way of stability, but no big deal for those of you who are collecting.

Allright, with the pat down, we can go into the materials used, and what types are best for your intention. There are many metals and variations of the formula used in blacksmithing sword, I will cover just a few. We can break things, simply a matter of "stainless steel, carbon steel versus"

Stainless-steel swords "These are used mainly for decoration only. They are not suitable for use in combat or the rigors of daily practice. (If the NWS 440 stainless arms, keep an eye out for 440-C, is more durable and high quality 440-B or A
Carbon steel "These are the weapons more usable, with able to survive some tough love with the owner, and should hold up well in combat environments.

About the Author:

Keep reading to find out more about swords, from Roman swords to Italian rapiers!

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Layman's Dojo - Japanese Edition (Katana)

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